Tuesday, March 15, 2016

Day 9: Goodbye Florence, Hello Cinque Terre!

September 2, 2015
Our time in Florence ended and another adventure began!  We were sad to leave the lovely Florence, a place that we all felt so connected to, but excited to travel to the gorgeous coastal area of Cinque Terre.  CheyAnn visited Cinque Terre when she lived in Italy, and had told me about how incredible it is, so I was very excited to finally see it together.  So that morning we said goodbye to the lovely Florence home exchange and packed up for a long drive to the coast.

Best home exchange setting ever!

Boston, feeling at home.
This was the view from the front yard of the Florence house!
Driving to Vernazza, in the Cinque Terre, honestly, was a freaking nightmare.  Thanks again to Google Maps giving us the fastest, most direct route, but not necessarily the most driveable route, we ended up driving along rural forest dirt roads to get up and over the mountain.  I had no clue if we were in the right spot or what, just that we continued to wind up and through the forests.  Eventually though, we peaked at the top of the mountain range and looked down and:(!)
We found Vernazza!  Gorgeous!  We were just thrilled to come out of the trees at the top of the mountains and look down on this gleaming pearl on the ocean.  So incredible.  We couldn't wait to get down there!

Our trusty wagon, a diesel min-minivan.  By American standards, of course, this is just a normal, larger sized car, but in Italy, it was a beast!
Little did I know that the worst driving was yet to come.  This was one of the better parts of the road down to Vernazza - a long, one-car-wide, winding trail that snaked along the cliff sides into the town.  It felt like all of the many, many turns were blind hair-pin turns, and after hearing other cars do it, I quickly started to honk as I approached.  If two cars converged at the same time, one of the cars would have to reverse down the road to a spot that was wide enough for the other to pass, sometimes going backwards for 100+ yards back up the winding cliff road.  It was really stressful and once we finally got the car parked, I was SO relieved!
Vernazza has a really lovely waterfront plaza, and we were so happy to ditch our hot city clothes and walk along the water.
As Solana and I were walking out on the jetty, we turned around and saw a huge wave come in and splash all of the people who were relaxing on the plaza, apparently too close to the water.  It was hilarious!


The sea was so amazingly blue and inviting, but the water was pretty rough, so I resisted the temptation to jump in right then and there.  

We had so much action to pack into less than 24 hours.  Vernazza left such an impression on my mind that I still can't believe we were there for only such a short period of time.  After cruising around the waterfront plaza, we found our way to the secret "New Beach".  I think we read about it in a blurb in the Rick Steves book (thanks again Rick!).  The New Beach was created by the devastating flooding that occurred here a few years ago and washed out some of the coast line.  To access the New Beach, you have to enter this cave that is kind of hidden away behind some shops on the main walkway.  I was trying to find this secret cave, so I asked one of the shop keepers, who told me that because the sea was so choppy that day, this secret New Beach was "Forbidden", which only made it that much more exciting.  She gave me some vague Italian directions, and eventually we found our way through a maze of gates and trash cans and shops to the cave, and when we made our way through, it was awesome!
Mindful of the choppy seas and the "forbidden" status, we stayed clear of the waves and kept a watchful eye, but aside from that, we all had a great time playing in tide pools and collecting beautiful stones and sea glass and relaxing for hours!

That's the cave in the background - so cool!

Everyone loves the beach.
Outside the apartment we rented - are we in Italy, or some lush tropical destination? 

Vernazza in the evening...



Monday, March 14, 2016

Day 8: 3rd Day in Florence

September 1, 2015
Our Third Day in Florence
Like so many days on this trip, this day was a great contender for the best day of our vacation (aka the best day of our lives).  It started off with a wild, scenic country drive, a delicious farmhouse brunch, (more) incredible gelato, world-class architecture, world class art, and then the best meal of our lives.  So yep, definitely a pretty great day.

Our home exchange host recommended this restaurant, Lo Spaccio, which is located on the Fattoria Maiano, an olive orchard.  We decided to head over for breakfast, since it wasn't too far from the house, at least according to Google Maps.  What Google Maps didn't tell us was that the 25 minute drive would take us up and down extremely steep, narrow country roads, back and forth on hairpin switch backs, and blindly off-roading through the Italian countryside for almost 45 minutes.  See those little trails in the picture above?  Picture our little minivan just bumping along those dirt paths as we all looked around trying to figure out where this restaurant is and how we were supposed to get there...

But once we did, it was awesome!

We had the whole place to ourselves, and they set up a nice table for us with farm-fresh bread, meat, cheese, and of course, orchard-fresh olive oil!


We were all so happy to have found it and so relaxed to be enjoying such a nice, quiet meal in an incredible place.


View from beside the table.


Once again, we determined to visit the World's Greatest Gelateria, La Carraia.  We got some great pics on this visit, and it was just as good as it was the previous day and all the days that CheyAnn went there as a student.



Gelato makes everyone happy.

As we walked along the streets of downtown Florence, Solana noticed this pony out of the corner of her eye in some store, and convinced us all to walk over for a pic, even though we had no idea what she was talking about.  Great find!
The magnificent Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, or "the Duomo", is as beautiful up close as it is viewed from a distance.  The size, the scale, the detail, the grandeur, everything about it made it one of the most impressive things we have ever seen!



We got to climb the stairs to the top, all 500 of them, and the trek included walking along the inside of the cupola of the dome.  Yes, in this picture I am literally almost hugging the wall, as this walkway was so high up.  To give a sense of how big and tall the dome is, it starts at the level we were at here, 171 feet above the ground below, and the dome curves up and in from there to a peak at 375 ft.
Gazing up at the dome from inside the cathedral.
Solana was an incredible champ climbing up 500 stairs (and riding down 500 stairs on my back).

Incredible views of Florence and the country from the top.



Inside the cathedral.
Gail loves Italy!
Boston loves Italy!
Solana loves The David.

We all love The David!  (Which is just incredible to view in person.)





Just a small portion of the incredible art at the Galleria dell'Accademia, which houses The David.

That night, CheyAnn and I headed off to a wonderful restaurant, Sesto on Arno, located on the roof of the Westin hotel overlooking the city and the Arno River.  Both of us had the tasting menu, and CheyAnn had the vegetarian tasting menu, and it was quite possibly the most delicious meal we've ever had!  I don't remember everything, because it was 6+ courses of culinary creativity, but I do remember the one below, which was beef carpaccio served on a salt platter!  Delicious and mind-blowing!  



Delightful, delicious dessert.
View from the best meal of our lives!  A great way to end one of the best days ever!


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